Wednesday, April 6, 2011

March in Review

THINGS I LOVE: MARCH
1.       My new home in Huangshan (Tunxi)
2.       My new employers, Moon and Mr. Wong (they consider me part of their family now and they always leave decisions up to me and say “you’re the boss.”)
3.       The new school and the eager, enthusiastic new students
4.       Mao Doufu, also called Hairy Tofu (an incredibly delicious type of tofu I’m told is found only in Huangshan)
5.       Mts., hiking paths, river paths and nature in general
6.       Flowers blooming
7.       Having four days off a week
8.       Old Street
9.       Living alone for the first time ever in an awesome apartment

10.   My new camera!

THINGS I MISS
1.       Springtime in the PacNorthwest
2.       Cadburry minis (thankfully mom sent some in a care package – awesome surprise!)
3.       Wireless internet in the apartment
4.       The smell of sweet box and daphnia at the end of winter
5.       St. Patrick’s day dash, green beer, Irish Car Bombs and the following memorable (or forgettable depending on how much you drink)debauchery
6.       The variety of supermarkets and various products Hefei had to offer
7.       My roomies and foreign amigos from Hefei
8.       All the running paths and routes I had back home
9.       The cabin
10.   My friends and family



Wednesday, March 16, 2011

China: A Fashionating Study

Grin and Wear It!

When packing a suitcase, the main question that pops up in most people’s heads is “What will I need or want to wear?”  Guidelines when packing for China are simply that anything goes.  As far as fashion is concerned in the Orient all bets are off and the rules are: there are no rules. 
Fifty years ago people in China didn’t have the option to express themselves through their choice in clothing (or virtually anything else for that matter), so I suppose their overcompensation these days is justified to a certain degree.  The fact that there are roughly 1.3 billion people in China means there’s some fierce competition to stand out in the crowd.  And believe me, plenty of people try their damndest to do anything but blend in.  The Chinese people are the epitome of overzealousness in nearly everything: they have an insane work ethic, they have some of the worlds’ highest test scores and most notable engineering achievements, they embrace an aggressive take-no-prisoner style of driving, and these attitudes are enthusiastically reflected in their attire.
The best way I can describe the way the majority of women (and quite a few men) dress is with serious reckless abandon and zero self-restraint.  It’s as though their closet or dresser was alive and puked out whatever combo it wanted and the wearer simply said, “ok, but let me add a couple frilly bows to my hair, pin a mini-stuffed animal to my sweater and put three more pairs of bright, sparkly colored socks on to pad my tiny feet from my excessively bejeweled, furry hooker heels.”
Sometimes it feels like I just walked off of what I picture the set of Mariah Carey’s movie Glitter would look like.  I can imagine every person was handed a Bedazzle machine and a bag full of rhinestones and was told to cram on as many as humanly possible.  Thus, you see women walking around in baggy sweatshirts with gigantic, blindingly sparkly Mickey Mouse heads (or Winnie the Pooh, or any other Disney character for that matter) plastered to the front, and guys with shirts that are pin striped in glitter. 



Besides Disney and glitter, other common themes in clothing include animal print (the more different types one can fit into one outfit the better, and bonus points if real fur is included somewhere as well), cheesy English phrases (they absolutely do NOT have to make sense, nobody here cares that much about what it actually says), and a wide range of knock-off luxury brand name clothing, bags and sunglasses.  I’ve also seen children dressed like adults, adults like children and babies like little emperors.    



As with everything in China, there is a balance in what people wear.  Though many dress over the top, the others simply go out in their tacky fleece or luxury silk pajamas and Croc sandals and don’t give a damn to what they look like while venturing out in public.  And to be honest, the public doesn’t much care either. 

Summary: To blend in try to stand out, chances are you’ll look just like every other over-adorned person on the street.  If you are a foreigner it really doesn’t matter what you wear, you will get blatantly stared and pointed at no matter where you go.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Six Month Summary

Mid-term Review

Good things come to those who wait.  No pain no gain.  Or as Mother Teresa said, “Let nothing perturb you, nothing frighten you.  All things pass.  God does not change.  Patience achieves everything.”  My first six months in China were full of change, chaos, anxiety and a certain amount of suffering.  This was my Yin.  Patience paid off though and I am now in Huangshan and entering what is shaping up to be a much brighter chapter of my life in China.  This will be my Yang.  Since being here I have had time to reflect on the lessons I have learned thus far.  Being away from Hefei has allowed me a sense of perspective, and it is time that we review as a class the most important things one should know about China through my point of view.

China Stinks.  Literally.  Since the majority of their bathrooms are squat pots there is nothing to contain the aromas of the raw sewage hanging out in the bottom of the pipes.  But these odors also apply to various random locations on the side of the street.  With the prevalence of Buttless Baby Breeches there are little puddles of piss everywhere. 
And men have a much lower level of modesty here and can often be found taking a leak against whatever very public wall or shrub is nearest.  Other common odors include paint and random toxic fumes from the myriad of construction sites, carbon monoxide being coughed out from the thousands upon thousands of cars, busses, trucks and tractors choking up the roads, and the indescribable and innumerable stenches that waft from the piles of garbage that loiter wherever they damn well feel like it. 

But not everything one smells in China is bad.  I will always love catching an enticing whiff of the street vendor foods (except for stinky tofu . . . that’s its actual name for a reason), and I know that for the rest of my life, whenever I smell freshly lit fireworks or incense, I will be able to close my eyes and be transported back to China for that fleeting moment.  


China is crazy.  There are certain unavoidable and asinine truths about China.  It doesn’t matter where you go, you will always hear the incessant honking of horns.  It doesn’t matter what time of the day or night it is, you are bound to hear the random, cackling and crackling and sometimes the heartier booming and popping of various fireworks.  It doesn’t matter how well you think you have adjusted, there will still be things that will take you by surprise on a regular basis.  It’s as though every aspect of the country was on a heavy dose of syrup that induces panicky hyperactivity.  People work like bees wearing blindfolds, frantically darting to and fro but often without being able to see the bigger, brighter picture.  In short, they work ridiculously hard and ridiculously inefficiently.  Nothing is built to last; new buildings are torn down to be replaced by newer ones.  People dress with a wild lack of self-restraint and rather than picking one look to wear often opt to put all of their favorites on at the same time.  And when dogs aren’t on the dinner menu, they tend to be dressed just as extravagantly as their owners. 

If you’ve seen the movie Moulin Rouge and recall the first half hour as being nothing but an onslaught of crazy flashing images and neon colors with a dash of lucid storytelling somewhere in there, that’s pretty much China in a nutshell.
China is beautiful.  Sunrises in Hefei were truly memorable.  At times it looked as though the burning orb of the rising sun had ignited the skies by setting the smog aflame.  This of course applied to many sunsets as well and made them particularly exciting to view near a body of water.  The evening sky would be heavy with vibrant colors that stuck to all the particles in the air, and the water would give the illusion of being molten lava.  Though the sun could make the sky beautiful, sometimes it was simply being able to see the blue sky at all that would put a smile on my face and fill me with calm.  And viewing the infinite pale indigo from atop Jiuhuashan took my breath away.  The Rockies, the Cascades and the Olympics are savage in their appeal, they are wild and untamed.  The Alps resonate strength, power and a certain hint of opulence and grandeur.  But the mountains in the Anhui province of China emit pure, simple and ancient majesty.  It’s as though wisdom seeps from the rocks and the trees and flows down the hillsides and into springs for monks to sip on with their tea. 

Aside from the visual beauty of China, I have had the privilege of observing and learning about the beauty of the culture as well.  It was hard for me to see at first, but again, time and patience were required.  To me China is like a man standing out in the rain with his face painted in the sinister and extravagant Peking Opera style.  He is intimidating and off-putting to say the least, but the longer he stands there, the more the rain washes off the thick paint.  And eventually, if you stand in front of him and watch long enough, you will see the soft features hidden underneath.  I’m still watching and I don’t know what the steady drips of water will ultimately reveal, but I don’t intend to walk away anytime soon. 


Summary: China doesn’t half-ass anything.  They have the biggest dam in the world, the longest wall in the world and roughly a quarter of all the people in the world.  When things are bad, they’re really bad.  And when things are good they defy both expectations and words to describe them by.  And remember, if you come to China you will learn as much about yourself as you will about this freakishly fascinating nation.

February in Review

THINGS I LOVE FEBRUARY
1.       Vacation (Aston said they wouldn’t pay me for not taking a vacation, so I took my vacation the week before my contract was up.)
2.       Xiamen and Gulang Yu (The coastal city where I went for my last-minute vacation)

3.       Sinking my feet into the sand on the beaches in Xiamen
4.       Getting sunburnt for the first time in 2011
5.       Knowing that I will be leaving Hefei the day after my birthday
6.       My birthday was the same day as the termination of my Aston contract
7.       Hot Pot – it’s China’s version of Fondu and is simply incredible

8.       My roomies and Riva (and all foreign friends for that matter : )
9.       Green Tea flavored Oreos
10.   Packing

THINGS I MISS
1.       Central heating
2.       The sunshine
3.       Warm weather
4.       Being able to run outside
5.       Nature
6.       Animal rights (I visited the zoo . . . . )

7.       Clean sidewalks (everyone spits here, and there is very little rain, so there are nasty globs everywhere)
8.       Birthday dinner with the fam
9.       Birthday cheesecake and microwbrews
10.   My friends and family

Saturday, February 26, 2011

The Zoo Blues

PETA Has a Point:

After a blue Christmas and a New Years that was decidedly painted black, my outlook on life was anything but rosy.  When we finally went on break I spent most of my time in a vegetative state firmly planted in front of the TV.  I told myself that my ongoing inactivity was justified and I was simply making up for the previous months of over-activity.  Unfortunately overindulging in being lazy didn’t make me feel any better, and the only thing it accomplished was to make all of my clothes fit a lot tighter.  To combat this stagnant phase in my life I decided I needed to get out and do something.  But what the hell was there to do in Hefei?
Clearly the toxins in the air must have been affecting my judgment.  I love animals and somehow reasoned that seeing the famous white tigers and giant panda at the Hefei zoo would boost my spirits.  Within the first five minutes of being there it became clear that the only thing this visit was going to do was drive me into a deeper state of depression. 
PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) makes a fuss and puts up a fight on behalf of all animals; in Hefei I saw firsthand what happens when PETA isn’t there to throw any punches.
It was the first warm day in Hefei in 2011.  It was during Spring Festival break; families were out and about.  Swarms of people descended upon the zoo like a colony of ants that discovered a summer picnic.  I entered among the throngs of eager gawkers and we funneled our way along the cement path through a vast construction zone where they appeared to be planting a new forest of some sort.  There was a big brown furry mass up ahead with a bright red cloth on it.  As we approached I saw it was a two-humped camel standing on a short tether with a small foot ladder next to it.  People could pay to sit on the red cloth between the two humps and get their picture taken. 

Beyond this welcoming committee were the chain linked enclosures for various deer, elk and a small pen for some zebras.  There was no attempt to create a ‘habitat’ for these animals; just dirt, a trough for their food and if they were lucky maybe a few tree stumps.  I continued on and was assaulted by the unnatural, blaring and shrill sounds of some “fun forest” rides and arcade games.  I gave a death glare to send bad karma in the general direction of the offensive clatter, and to my horror I saw that the cage closest to this noise pollution belonged to the animal with the biggest ears in the world: the elephant. 

Imprisoned within austere iron bars was an enormous, lone Asian elephant.  He stared into space with a gaze that was both bored and searching.  It was a haunting, human gaze.  In the wild elephants wander several miles in a day; this one was restricted to a shed and a cement pad roughly the size of a basketball court enclosed with electric wires, spikes on the ground, a ditch and a firm set of metal bars.      
My heart had sunk to the pit of my stomach after seeing this poor pachyderm, so I turned and navigated my way through the bumper cars and past the rusting miniature roller coasters and followed a sign pointing to the monkey cages.  On my way I passed a camel gnawing on a discarded milk box, and a mangy ostrich that was missing half its feathers, and the ones it did have were ashy gray rather than sleek and black. 
The deeper in I got, the more it felt like I was in some twisted nursery rhyme and had landed on the island of the misfit toys.  The animals here were just stuffed playthings; a chimpanzee cast off because she was too small, a baboon tossed aside because he had dry patches of skin, and enormous tigers that were broken and didn’t do anything but lie down all day long.  There were performers there too.  There were big scary dogs that would bark on cue when people shouted and kicked at the fences of their tiny kennels.  And there was the monkey that would swing dangerously from the only tree in its cage and would then imitate the clapping of the people. 

Perhaps the saddest were the bear and the rare red panda that would beg on hind legs for food that people would throw to them in spite of all the signs warning people not to feed the animals.  My heart sunk down past my knees as I watched the bear eat a fully wrapped piece of candy that someone threw in for it.  As if these scenes and settings weren’t upsetting enough, perhaps the most disheartening and ironic of all was viewing the white tigers and the giant panda.


These animals are the most treasured and symbolic of all the animals in China, and yet they were the most sorely mistreated of them all.  Unlike the other toys in the land of the misfits, these ones weren’t meant to be played with, they were trophies and they were meant to be stared at.  The majestic striped cats had the smallest cages and there was absolutely nothing in them but a cement floor and the cats themselves.  The panda at least got a sprig of bamboo and had grass on the floor, but it was literally lying on a pedestal.  By now my heart was under my feet and I was stomping all over it, so I decided to get the heck out of there, half terrified of what I would see next. 

I threaded my way through the thick crowds, pausing on occasion when people would ask to get their picture taken with me, accepting my role as just another part of the freak show.  I waved goodbye to the poor camel that was still standing in the same spot at the entrance.  I squeezed into the overcrowded substandard bus and said good-riddance to the substandard zoo.  The couch, the emotional safety of watching re-runs of Friends and the inevitable tightening of my clothes wasn’t sounding nearly so bad anymore.
Summary: Animal rights activists may be loud and obnoxious, but it’s far easier to tolerate them than it is to tolerate the sight of Nature’s most beautiful creatures living in the most unnatural way.   

Saturday, February 12, 2011

January in Review

THINGS I LOVE JANUARY
1.       Vacation (Aston is remodeling so we actually got three weeks off.  Not sure I would’ve survived otherwise)
2.       Knowing that I will be leaving Hefei in one month
3.       Knowing that my future employers are awesome
4.       Moving a bunch of my stuff down to Huangshan
5.       Watching bootlegged TV series of Mad Men . . .
6.       . . . Friends . . .
7.       . . . Glee
8.       Sesame and peanut powder candy from Huangshan
9.       Snow days that cancelled some classes
10.   Winning the top prize at the Aston Spring Festival party. . . the prize was a juicer that I will likely never use

THINGS I MISS
1.       Central heating
2.       Carpets
3.       My warm and cozy bed at home
4.       Sitting in front of the fire at the cabin
5.       Showers that stay hot for longer than 15 minutes
6.       Adequate cold weather shoes
7.       Knowing that if there’s a power outage it’s because of weather and not because Aston forgot to pay the bill
8.       Warm weather
9.       My sanity
10.   My friends and family



The Winter of my Discontent

How Aston Spells the Holidays: F.U.
By the time December rolled around in the not-so-glorious city of Hefei, my personality was starting to take on the same characteristics I would use to describe the city: frantic, agitated, cold, depressing and with little bits of ice growing steadily thicker by the day.

The only thing keeping me going was the reassuring thought that the holiday season was upon us.  I listened to my Christmas playlist obsessively and watched every movie I could find that had even a hint of Holiday cheer.  I kept reminding myself that we FINALLY had some vacation days to look forward to.  And of course, there was the Aston holiday party!
The party was scheduled for the 17th, and I was interested to see what the Chinese take on this Western holiday would be.  At home, Christmas is ‘the most wonderful time of the year!’  It’s a fact.  Ask Andy Williams.  I was certainly hoping some of that spirit of goodwill toward men would hold up on the other side of the world.  But by the time the party was over, I was fairly certain the Holiday Spirit was another sad example of something lost in translation.  The party itself was great; there was delicious catered food for all of the students and their parents to enjoy.  And for the boss of the company to enjoy.  But all of us teachers doing all the work were provided our own holiday meal beforehand.  We got KFC.  
And as for the ‘vacation’ I was looking forward to, I should’ve known it wouldn’t be that straightforward.  Throughout the previous four months, our schedules were constantly changing.  On Sunday nights we would get the schedule for the upcoming week, and midweek was where they would typically schedule marketing and other erratic variations to the schedule.  The weekend was the only thing that was marginally fixed.  That is to say, that I always had seven classes on Saturday and twelve on Sunday.  It was exhausting, but at least I could plan for it because I knew what to expect.  And then “holiday season” happened. 
First, I got sick in the beginning of December and had to stay home one Saturday.  The following weekend they crammed every free hour that I had on Saturday full of make-up classes.  And although I was making up for the classes I missed, the manager informed me that I would also be fined for the time I had taken off.  The same thing happened to my roommate when he got sick.  It’s standard policy.  The next weekend one of the foreign teachers was on vacation, so yet again all of my spare time on Saturday was filled with covering for his classes.  Mercifully, we actually got Christmas day off and so we only had to work our Sunday schedule that weekend.  That Sunday night when I checked the schedule for the next weekend, I noticed that although our contract specifically says we get New Year’s Day off, which this year fell on a Saturday, they opted to give us New Year’s Eve off instead.  To add insult to injury, they packed every free hour I had that New Year’s day full of classes to make up for the ones that were missed on Christmas.  The Holiday Spirit I was familiar with from home was definitely missing this year.  To make up for it I filled up on whatever spirits I could find in liquid form that New Year’s Eve.  What should have been a time for celebration turned out to be the worst couple of weeks I had suffered through since arriving in China. 
I wish I could say that things got better, but the next few weeks continued along a similar vein.  Another foreign teacher went on vacation, which meant those of us remaining had to cover his classes.  We also had to cram in some catch-up classes because the school was closing for three weeks in late January through early February for remodeling.  It was exhausting.  But at long last, on January 24th the classes stopped.  And with them, whatever remained of my motivation and sanity was cut off as well.  I was emotionally and mentally drained and the only thing I could find to fill up on was apathy.  I stuffed myself full of it, and though I tried to quit my addiction, I was still binging heavily on it when classes started a few weeks later.  The only thing I could bring myself to care about was the fact that I would be leaving Hefei and Aston behind in the finally visible future.  And in fact, that is still all I can bring myself to care about to this day. 
Summary:
The Grinch does exist, and her name is Vivian (the owner of the Aston Hefei School).  The only holiday spirit you will find in Hefei comes in bottle form.  When you are in an Eastern part of the world, don’t expect to enjoy your Western holidays.  But most importantly, when things aren’t going well, try to remember that eventually it will all be reduced to a mere memory.