Monday, November 21, 2011

Go Big or Go Home

Traveling China-Style

I am sitting here trying to figure out how to start this update, but an onslaught of questions keep running through my mind and wrapping a tangle of ropes around my thoughts.  How does one tackle the task of describing China?  What are the most important things others should know?  What are the most interesting?  The most relevant?  How can I possibly begin to define what China means to me?  Where do I start?

Here’s my summary of what an abridged Cliffs Notes version of Chinese History might look like.  Though there were Neolithic cultures as early as 10,000 BCE, the Shang Dynasty dated from 1,600 BCE is considered to be the beginning of civilization in China.  From that point on, China has been the poster child for reinvention.  One dynasty would create a Nation that was shiny, brilliant and full of new inventions and advances in society only to have the next dynasty tear it down and attempt to wipe out all traces of what had come before it.  This was repeated over and over, the most recent example being the Cultural Revolution.  Temples were destroyed, social classes were abolished, and people were sent to the country to experience Thought Reform through Labor.  But times have changed and so has the general mentality.  The country that had wiped its slate clean and brought its people to their knees has slowly but surely beckoned them to stand up again and once more encourages them to “Think big.” 


One of the defining traits of China is the drive to build things on a large scale, no matter what the cost.  Take the Great Wall, for example.  It is the largest manmade structure in the world, and the construction spanned several dynasties and required millions of people to build and rebuild it.  It has also been nicknamed the largest graveyard in the world because when workers would die from exhaustion they would be buried within or somewhere next to the wall. 

China has plenty of other really big things to boast about.  The Forbidden City is the largest palace complex in the world, and the Grand Canal is the oldest and longest man made waterway in the world.  The Leshan Giant Buddha is the largest carved stone Buddha in the world and it is by far the tallest pre-modern statue in the world.  China has the fastest train in the world (302mph), the highest public observation deck at the Shanghai World Financial Center (it’s 474.2 m, the Burj Khalifa’s is 442 m), and the longest bridge that spans 26 miles across Jiaozhou Bay to connect Qingdao to Huangdao island.  And of course, we are all well aware of the the largest concrete structure in the world: The Three Gorges Dam. 

And thus, when I reflect on my experiences in China, the idea of ‘big’ tends to come to mind.  Perhaps the most condensed version of this was my river cruise down the Yangtze.  It started in the city of Chongqing where buildings were lit up at night and covered in the largest video advertising I’d ever seen.  I also saw the biggest, most elaborate recreation of an ancient city perched on the hill above the river.  Because this was going to be a three day cruise, I opted to spend some big money and travel in style and comfort.  And so I set off down the longest river in China on a boat that was shaped quite literally as the largest dragon I had ever seen.  It was money well spent.  I relaxed, took in the sights and still consider it one of the best memories of my time here in China.  The views of the gorges and tributary rivers are not nearly as stunning as they once were, according to the Chinese people who have seen it both ways.  But I have to admit, approaching the dam at midnight was certainly awe inspiring.  It took four hours to get through the locks, and during the tour the next morning they mentioned that they are currently building an elevator to lift boats over the damn. 



It’s fairly mind boggling to think about all the things China has built in the last few decades, but so often when I’m traveling and seeing these unnatural wonders I can’t seem to get Jeff Goldblum’s voice out of my head.  Over and over I hear his character Malcolm from the movie Jurassic Park saying, “Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could that they didn't stop to think if they should.”  China has certainly proved that they can build some incredible things, but only time will tell which of these things should or should not have been done.














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