Thursday, December 30, 2010

December in Review

Things I love: December

1.       Listening to my iPod Christmas playlist
2.       Care packages
3.      Spending 70¥ on a small tub of Haagen Dazs coffee ice cream, 130¥ for Kahlua, 100¥ for a small bottle of Bailey’s,   8¥ on PBR Black beer and getting to enjoy a beer float for breakfast on Christmas morning 
4.       My fleece granny PJs
5.       Days off for Christmas and New Years
6.       Hanging out with my ex-pat and Chinese friends and getting surprised with a delicious cup of mulled wine on Christmas eve
7.       Listening to Chinese children singing Christmas carols
8.       Having roomie Christmas a few days early and opening presents together

9.       Knowing I’ll be moving to Huangshan in a month
10.   Milk tea (Nai Cha)and drinking hot Ginger-Brown sugar water because, according to the Chinese, it’s good for you

Things I miss: December
1.       Christmas at home
2.       Holiday parties with friends and family
3.       Making tons of Christmas cookies and delivering plates of them to friends
4.       Central heating
5.       My bike (it got stolen)
6.       My car (I hate taking the bus)
7.       My friends and family
8.       Egg Nog
9.       Soy Nog
10.   Pumpkin Spice Soy Nog


Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Getting Schooled in China

Lesson #6: The Teacher is the Student
I came to China for many reasons.  I came to travel and see a distant part of the world.  I came to get an inside glimpse into a very foreign culture.  I came to get another perspective on life, and to make sure that when I look back I won’t say “I regret not living somewhere else for a while.”  And of course, I came here to learn how to teach. 

Knowing that I want to get my Masters in teaching and become a high school teacher when I return, I was looking forward to getting some much needed teaching experience.  I was eager to figure out my classroom management style, and since I hope to teach ELL when I get back, teaching English to students here would really help me brush up on my grammar skills.  I just hoped I wouldn’t get stuck with all the youngest students; there would be little to no value that I could see for helping me achieve my future goals.
Some people grow up adoring small children; I grew up indifferent to them.  I think kids are cute, but have always had an underlying fear of them.  To me they are like wolves in sheep’s clothing.  They appear to be adorable, harmless little lambs, but in reality are dangerous and should be avoided at all costs.  Admittedly they wouldn’t harm you physically the way a wolf could, but they can wreak emotional disaster on a person in a matter of minutes.  The little monsters reel you in with their irresistible miniature features and pleading puppy eyes; but at any given moment they may turn into a horrifying pooping, screaming, squirming, snot-gooping inconsolable fiend.  Lock me up in a cold, deserted, condemned haunted mansion 50 miles away from the nearest sign of civilization in the middle of a vast cornfield in the middle of some backwards state in the middle of the U.S., have a different horror movie playing in every room for good measure, and I would probably be more comfortable than I would be teaching a class full of little toddlers that I know full well to actually be mini-monsters in disguise.  I’ve concluded that China has a queer sense of humor.  Not being satisfied with throwing a dirty, stinky pile of culture shock in my face it apparently thought it would be amusing to toss me into the pit filled with these puny people and see what would become of me.   

At Aston there are three full time foreign teachers: my two roommates Oly and George, and me.  Oly taught six months at a different Aston branch before coming here, so they gave him the highest levels.  When they gave me my schedule they said they gave me the lowest levels and youngest kids because of my lack in previous teaching experience.  Both George and I have never taught before.  Clearly being a woman did NOT play to my favor in this instance.  It appeared my nightmare of being around snot monsters was turning into a reality, and what I envisioned would be my ultimate Adventure Epic was to be transformed into a Horror Story.   
In the beginning God said “let there be light.”  As I started my first week of teaching that’s exactly what I begged heaven for as well.  My TESOL classes prepared me for teaching students about grammar and English conversation, but we never delved into babysitting and how to entertain small children that have had zero exposure to the English language.   I learned quickly which games were effective and which were not.  I had to adjust to the idea that Friday and Saturday nights would be devoted to lesson planning and heavy duty sleeping.  I had to try not to take it personally when the youngest students would cry when they saw me, or when the older ones would roll their eyes and ask “is finished now?”  I had to adapt myself to teaching promotional classes in the Primary schools where the classrooms typically have 50-70 very energetic students.  And I had to keep telling myself over and over again that this was fun and that things were getting better.  And somewhere along the line, those phrases became true.  Without knowing how or exactly when, I crossed an invisible barrier and tears were replaced with smiles, some students run to hug me when I entered the room, and upon my leaving others would say emphatically, “thank you, good bye, see you later, thank you!”  Though I didn’t see the value in teaching youngsters before, I have since taken the blinders off that I was wearing and can see the entire picture now.    

One of the first things you learn about China is that nothing is as you expect.  I did not expect that I would have little to no time to travel.  I did not expect to have only two days off instead of the three that were stipulated in my contract, but that was my idiotic decision to comply with that revision.  I did not expect to teach seven different classes on Saturday, only to get up the next morning and teach twelve classes on Sunday.  I did not expect to be teaching children so young they can barely walk.  Had Fate visited me one day and given me a quick glimpse into this part of my future, I probably never would have come here.  And I would have missed out on one of the greatest experiences of a lifetime, and I would never have learned many of the lessons that I am still only just beginning to understand. 
You can read Confucius sayings and Proverbs all day long and be a better person for it if you can apply them to your life.  But the lessons that stick with you are ones you learn through experience, and wisdom that these proverbs try to impart on readers is much more poignant when you are living through examples of them.  Or, in the words of the master philosopher himself, “I hear and I forget.  I see and I remember.  I do and I understand.”
Summary: You may come here for a specific purpose, but often Fate has her own purpose for you.  You will come here to teach, but will end up learning far more about yourself, about others, about the ways of the world than you ever would have expected.  Your opinions about things will change.  Your patience will be tried and your emotional stamina will be tested; you will become a better person for every small victory you win in these battles. 

Monday, December 27, 2010

Ride into the Sunset

Lesson #5: Buy a Bike

When living in a (relatively) large city in China, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed, claustrophobic and very stifled.  Being from the Pacific Northwest I am accustomed to having the great outdoors waiting for me on my doorstep.  In Hefei, the outdoors are not great and they’re considerably more challenging to find.  When daycations aren’t available, the next best thing is to go for a bike ride and head to one of the many parks in the city.  This of course requires that you buy a bike.  Here is a step by step guide on how to make a successful purchase.
1.       Know what you want.  Shopping for a bike in China is vastly different than shopping for a bike in the states.  In the U.S. the criteria for buying a bike is that it has multiple speeds, a comfortable seat, is moderately stylish and has a good, highly visible trusted brand name.  If you’re on a budget you’ll try to find a good quality used bike, but it better be damn near perfect.  If you have to buy new, you will; this bike is an investment and you want quality.  In China, a new, high quality bike is for idiots.  Flash that name brand around and your bike will be stolen the second you start to dismount.  When looking to buy my first bike my only stipulations were that it worked, and that it didn’t look too new.
2.       Know your price range.  I set my highest price at 100RMB.
3.       Find a busy market area so there is ample competition to help drive the price down.
4.       Take a Chinese person with you.  They will be able to do all the talking, and will also be able to make sure you’re not getting totally screwed on the price. 
5.       Test the bike before you buy.
6.       Make sure you look reasonably disappointed even if the bike is perfect; you don’t want them to think you want it that bad or you’ll never get the price down. 
7.       Buy two locks for it before you get home; if it’s not secured to something it will probably get stolen.  Again.  (If you’re buying a used bike for only 100RMB, it’s a pretty safe bet you’re buying a stolen bike)
8.       Understand that if your nice, used, previously stolen bike does eventually get stolen from you that’s just Karma.
Once you have your new old-previously-stolen bike you get that same liberating feeling that you had the first time your parents left you for an entire week at some awesome summer camp.  The possibilities are limitless.  Having the bike will also make the huge city shrink just a little in size because you’ll be able to see where things start to connect.  And finally, if you’re lucky, you’ll find a bike route that will become your personal ‘Zen ride.’
 In Hefei I discovered a path that followed the river out to the large reservoir on the outskirts of the city.  Anytime I was feeling overwhelmed, or just wanted a little bit of peace and quiet, or a hint of nature I would ride along my path.  While riding on this path I’ve seen delicate trees transform with the changing of the seasons, stumbled upon a vast botanical garden, watched the sun paint the sky with electric shades of pink just before it sunk into the water, and I’ve seen Coy fish that looked like iridescent dancing rose pedals while they were feeding in a hatchery. 

Summary:  Buy a bike.  Find “your path.”  Appreciate the little moments of freedom and beauty that your squeaky bike will give you.  Also appreciate that if you have a bike you can avoid riding the busses that often have decaying wood flooring and are stuffed so full of people that it makes a can of sardines look spacious.   

Monday, December 13, 2010

Give Yourself a Break!

Lesson #4:  Take a Daycation


One of the first things I learned about teaching English in China is that there are certain inalienable truths.  The first truth is that you will get screwed on your first teaching job in China.  Call it a rite of passage.  Call it Naiveté.  Call it what you will; the bottom line is that this truth held begrudgingly strong for my experience.  In the beginning of my time in China I suffered from an acute bout of disbelief and frustration regarding my lack of free time.  I had signed up for a 20 hour a week contract, so naturally assumed I would have more time on my hands than I would know what to do with.  Without going into particulars, the bottom line is the “20 hour” line was a crock of bull.  My teaching planning, traveling to and from and between classes, and actual classroom time wound up occupying far more than 20 hours.  During the weekdays I teach at different public schools on any given week.  During the weekends I have a set schedule that consists of teaching 7 classes every Saturday and 11-12 every Sunday.  Most of the kids are under the age of 10.  I only get two days off a week and they are not consecutive; so much for weekend trips.  At first I was forlorn.  I thought it appropriate that the walls of our apartment are made of cold hard cement.   They would lend a much more authentic feel to the notion of being stashed away in a cave somewhere. 

After my initial shock and infection of negativity, I started looking for some antidotes.  Some remedies included spending time with my new friends, exploring the city and laughing at all the funny things people wear, and stuffing my face with authentic Chinese food (though this can backfire, literally . . . ahem. . . if you eat too much too quickly).  One of the most effective treatments I found to battle discontentedness turned out to be quite simple.  Take a daycation.  Correction: take lots of daycations. 

I am lucky because Hefei is in a fantastic location.  The Anhui province is home to some of the most famous mountains in all of China, and possibly the world.  If you’ve seen Avatar and can recall the picturesque floating mountains, just keep in mind that those were inspired by the mountain ranges in Anhui.  Furthermore, because it has always been a relatively poor province, many of the ancient cities and sites survived the destructive Cultural Revolution.  Since Hefei is the capital of the Anhui province, it is the hub of various lines of transportation.  Thus, it is easy to take a bullet train to Nanjing or Shanghai, or to take a bus to virtually any tourist site within a six hour driving radius. 

My first daytrip was during the National Day break, and my roomies and I ventured out to Zipongshan.  This is a small mountain about an hour and a half bus ride from Hefei.  What is notable about this mountain is that it demonstrates what the new Chinese mentality is for tourist sites: the rise of the new ‘ancient’ cities and temples.  Most of the buildings we saw here were only about halfway complete, and they were impressive structures that were built in a very traditional style.  Interestingly, half of the funding for these new temples was from the Japanese.  This is ironic because most of the Chinese people I know do not like the Japanese, and I think that has a lot to do with Hefei’s close proximity to Nanjing.  The war memories do not fade so quickly. 
Another daycation that I mentioned in an earlier lesson was my roomies’ and my outing with our new Chinese friends.  They took us to Egret Island and Liangyashan and gave us our first taste of how sweet and fulfilling Chinese generosity can be.  We feasted our eyes on beautiful landscapes and authentic ancient temples, and stuffed our hearts and souls with laughter and happy memories.
 


And then there was Nanjing.  My roommate George and I dedicated one of our days off to exploring this vibrant and booming city.  It was the first time since coming to China that I felt like I found somewhere that was up to speed on modern thinking.  Cars stay in their lanes when they drive, there is a subway system that is timely and has English translations, and there is a Starbucks.  Actually, I counted two.  And a Seattle Café.  Aside from being comforted by modernity, we were also welcomed with a beautiful sunny day and a city-scape with the trees in full fall color.  After being in Hefei where trees are almost as uncommon as foreigners, it was like a dream coming to Nanjing and seeing the foliage filled hills that surround it. 
Our timing couldn’t have been better; it was like Mother Nature had been hiding this day in her back pocket, waiting for us to arrive.  When we finally got there she greeted us with a hug and a kiss, handed us this small gift and whispered in our ears, “I saved the brightest colors for you, I hope you enjoy!”
Of course, when I traveled to Jiuhuashan a few weeks later I had a suspicion that Mother Nature may have been missing me as much as I had been missing her.  Every time I traveled out of the city, she would treat me with marvelous sunny days and stunning vistas.  I could almost hear the trees murmuring, “See how majestic we are, don’t you miss us?”  And the crisp leaves that fluttered on the branches and danced in the breeze rasped out “Buildings can’t move the way we do.  Buildings don’t change colors.  Do you really like looking at them more than us?”  Each step I took on the time worn path that wound through the bamboo forests and up the mountain sides was both a reminder to me of how much I missed the ‘Great Outdoors’ and was also a small prayer of thanks to whatever forces on Earth conspired to bring me to this magical place and bless me with this wonderful day.



Summary: Travel an hour or travel six hours.  It will be worth it.  Once you are out of your immediate surroundings you will feel like a tourist again, and you will start to look at things through a different filter.  This filter has a way of sifting out a lot of the bad energy and toxins you may have been inhaling in your ‘home city’.  It will bring back into focus what your motive was for coming to China, and will make you thankful for both the good and the bad; the yin and the yang.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Kung Pow Turkey Day

Case Study #2: Hosting Thanksgiving in China
Time is a mysterious and elusive creature.  One moment you are running at a dead sprint trying desperately just to catch a glimpse at its shadow.  The next thing you know you feel like you’ve been stood up at a dinner date, checking your watch continually and wondering if Time is ever going to show up. 
In China, I initially felt like Time was some slow tortoise that could barely be bothered to move.  Each week seemed like an eternity, and I never even took a moment to consider what I would be doing for the holidays because I honestly thought they might never get here.  Imagine my surprise when I discovered that in the marathon to Thanksgiving, the tortoise was suddenly smirking at me from the finish line.  With just one week to plan, my fellow American friend, Rand, and I decided to throw a Thanksgiving feast for all the people we cared about in Hefei. 
Our original plan was to cook some traditional dishes and invite all our closest friends to celebrate at one of our apartments.  We started brainstorming what to make and soon realized that nearly all of the recipes required the use of an oven.  They don’t have ovens in China.  The next best thing was the small toaster oven that Rand and his roommate, Riva, have.  It could probably fit a small chicken, but would never be able to handle an entire turkey, let alone the rest of the dishes on our menu.  Another issue was that most of the ingredients would be challenging to find, and thus would likely be very expensive.  Because of my work schedule, I would only have the day of the dinner in order to prepare and help get things ready.  With that many strikes against us, we concluded it would be wiser to host the dinner at a restaurant instead.
Hefei has a nearly non-existent ex-pat population, and the idea of a foreign tourist ever visiting this city is both laughable and unfathomable.  Because of this, in a city of more than 3 million people there is only one place we knew of that would be serving a traditional Thanksgiving meal at their restaurant: The Hilton.
Rand and I consulted with the restaurant manager and reserved an area that could seat 25 people and requested that the tables be pushed together to form one long table.  This request seemed simple enough to us, but the very idea of it proved to be almost too much for the manager to handle.  She was convinced that it would be inconvenient and people would much rather be at smaller tables.  We told her that this was the traditional way of eating a Thanksgiving meal, and she said she would try to make it happen for our feast. 
It was a relief getting that out of the way, and was very comforting to know that there would be a delicious assortment of professionally cooked Thanksgiving themed dishes for our guests to enjoy.  But Rand and I still wanted to bring something homemade to the dinner to add that personal touch.  We considered making pie, but the restaurant manager mentioned that there would be both pumpkin and pecan pie available at the extensive dessert bar.  And so we settled on cookies.  What could be more American than a chocolate chip cookie?  And what tastes more like the Holidays than a bite of a sugary gingerbread cookie? 

On Thanksgiving morning at 9:00 we headed to the store to get our ingredients (technically stores, it took a few tries to find everything we needed).  We were back to his place and busy prepping by 11:00.  For the next five and a half hours Rand, Riva and I slaved away in their tiny kitchen making some of the tastiest cookies I’ve ever had.  Because they don’t have chocolate chips in China, we opted to use the ridiculously expensive (and ridiculously good) Lindtt 85% special dark chocolate bars that we found in one of the stores.  We broke the bars into chunks, occasionally taste testing to ensure the quality was suitable for our cookies.  We used highly scientific guesswork on the measuring, kneaded the dough by hand, and incorporated Ford’s assembly line techniques for getting the cookies on the trays, in the oven, and back off the trays without breaking the fresh-baked fragile cookies.  Though we were not in our home countries, and though we were baking on a much smaller scale, or at least with a smaller oven, it was still a day devoted to preparing food in anticipation of a night sharing it with the people we love. 
 At 6:30 my roommate, George, and I met up with Rand and Karita and walked across the street to The Hilton.  As we were walking on the sidewalk a mini-midget beggar ran up to Rand and bear hugged his leg and wouldn’t let go until we gave some money.  It was particularly strange that she chose to go after Rand considering he is roughly 6’5” and this person didn’t even go up to his hip.  After a good laugh (it was really funny . . . . and awkward) we gave her some change and proceeded in to the restaurant.  And there in the back was our single long table for 25.  They had even decorated it with green apples and various nuts.  It was perfect. 
The rest of the evening was a dizzy blur of mixed English and Chinese conversations, endless photo opps and sumptuous Thanksgiving food.  Toward the end of the evening, some of the servers rolled up an entire turkey for our table.  We had no idea they were going to cook a whole bird for our party, so it came as a very exciting surprise.  We gave a toast, filled up on turkey and cookies, and had a truly wonderful evening. 
 

When you spend Thanksgiving away from your home and away from your family, it’s easy to assume that it won’t be as good because it ‘just won’t be the same.’  I learned that this assumption is only partly true.  The people and the place are certainly different, but that doesn’t mean it won’t be as good.  When you adhere to the traditions, and share them with people you care about, it doesn’t matter where you are, the warm and soothing feeling you get is still the same.  I will always be thankful that I got to learn this lesson for myself.  I will always be thankful for my Chinese Thanksgiving.  
Summary: If you are in a foreign country for Thanksgiving, host a turkey day feast.  Understand that you will probably spend a lot of money, but know this: it will be worth it.   

Thursday, December 2, 2010

November in Review


TEN THINGS I MISS:
1.       The holiday season at home (Halloween, Thanksgiving, and the anticipation of Christmas)
2.       Having two days off in a row
3.       Knowing that if I go inside a building people will not spit, smoke, or throw trash and food debris on the floor
4.       Shoes my size
5.       Tailgate season
6.       An oven
7.       Going running outside
8.       Reading books at various coffee shops around Seattle
9.       Looking at a recipe online and knowing that I will be able to find all the ingredients and measuring utensils
10.   My friends and family

TEN THINGS I LOVE:
1.       China Music CN: free LEGAL downloads!
2.       Daycations to Nanjing and Jiuhuashan
3.       The irregularly warm weather
4.       Roasted chestnuts and street vendor sweet potatoes


5.       Thanksgiving and home cooked meals with my Chinese friends/family

6.       Learning Chinese by going and sitting in on my friend’s kindergarten classes
7.       Going to the gym
8.       Care packages (thanks mom!)
9.       Babies bundled up in winter clothes and all resembling the boy from A Christmas Story

10.   Homemade Chai Tea (I drink it from a jar and it reminds me of my friend Charlotte; and it tastes delicious : )